Zegna presents a fluid reality

Although the concept of quiet luxury, understated sophistication or whatever name you have for it might seem novel, Ermenegildo Zegna has been practising it since the Italian fashion house’s beginnings. During its Autumn/Winter 2023 show at Milan Fashion Week, Zegna emphasised the fundamentals of the Zegna gentleman, who knows he needs well-fitted ensembles with locally woven and traceable fabric.

Alessandro Sartori, who took over as creative director in 2016, has been upholding the longstanding tradition while stimulating the sartorial impulses with modern shapes, silhouettes and textures. His ideas hinge heavily on material: “At Zegna, I have the unprecedented opportunity to create fabrics from weaving through to finishing, challenging our manufacturers, pushing them to explore uncharted waters. This allows me to mould our silhouettes right from the matter, making sure that our commitment to innovation and excellence is rooted in every step of the process. The result is an all-encompassing language that is truly progressive.”

The collection of skilfully designed garments comprises cropped bomber jackets, polo shirts, cardigans, elongated coats, lapel- and collar-less blazers, full trousers and sack-inspired jackets — in a muted palette with pops of colour. Several of the pieces are created with 3D jacquards while geometric patterns adorn the puffy outerwear. Oasi Cashmere fabric has a lot going on thanks to the variety of textures it comes in, including double-sided jacquard meltons, coated and uncoated bouclès, felts and jerseys. The collection also incorporates #UseTheExisting sources to create a granite effect on alpaca, cotton-blend corduroy and tactile wool twill. As Zegna broadens its stylistic possibilities, some of its offerings include pieces from its collaboration with The Elder Statesman, an “off-kilter” LA-based luxury fashion and lifestyle brand. 

Swipe the gallery to check our the key looks from the collection: